In the last few years, the restaurant scene in Stavanger has produced a few true gems, and none more so than Sabi Omakase at Pedersgata. Since its opening in 2015, critics have been overwhelming in their positive reviews, underlining the quality of the food, the simplicity and pureness of the presentation and the exceptional skill of Head Chef Roger Asakil Joya. So, what is the story behind this groundbreaking, Michelin Star restaurant?
Actually, it’s a good thing Roger Asakil Joya did not listen to his high school teacher who told him that if he didn’t manage to become a Head Chef by the age of 30 it could be difficult to have a girlfriend, family, or social life outside of work because of the work pressure needed to succeed. Otherwise the Sabi Omakase restaurant would never have seen the light of day.
“She kind of scared me away from following my aspirations of becoming a chef for a while, and I went in a different direction, applying for University as a criminology student after leaving high school,” he tells Localfolk with a smile. Luckily, his passion for cooking in general, and sushi especially, was kept alive by working part time jobs at House of Sushi and later Alex Sushi while studying. “Sushi was quite new in Norway at that time, and I felt that what was being served was not truly authentic,” he says. His dream was to build competency in the authentic EdoMae style of sushi, which hails back to old Tokyo (Edo) more than 200 years ago. He then wanted to bring this style to Norway. “This is the highest form of the art of sushi where the Itamae (chef) seeks to exploit the produce they find in their vicinity, and then present it as pure and simplistic as possible, as so to enhance the natural flavour and texture of the produce,” Roger explains enthusiastically.
He spent considerable time in Japan, learning the style and working with true masters of the art of sushi. He still returns to Japan once per year and is one of the very few chefs in Norway that is accredited by AJSA, All Japan Sushi Association.“I seek to be faithful and true to the Japanese tradition, but with my own Norwegian twist, I have dubbed my style Normae sushi” Roger exclaims. He even gets Japanese visitors to his restaurant every now and then, that have travelled purely for the purpose of trying his style of EdoMae sushi. “They recognise the distinct EdoMae style but are often surprised and impressed by how we use the local ingredients,” he says with a hint of pride.
In 2015 he could finally realise his dream of opening his own sushi restaurant – Sabi Omakase by Roger Asakil Joya, in Stavanger. He tells Localfolk how he looked all over Norway to find the perfect location, and when he saw the building at Pedersgata in Stavanger advertised on finn.no, he knew he had found what he was looking for. A quick phone call to the owner, and not only had he secured the location for his new restaurant, but he also agreed to take part in building up a chain of sushi restaurants in the Rogaland area. Today the Sabi Sushi chain is the leading chain of high-quality sushi take-away restaurants in Norway.
After barely seven months in operation, Sabi Omakase was awarded one star in the Michelin Guide for 2017 – as the only sushi restaurant in the Nordic region to achieve that honour, something Roger was, and still is, rightfully proud of. He maintained the rating in 2018 and 2019. Since then, the awards and positive reviews have been piling up for Roger and Sabi Omakase and the restaurant is fully booked for many months.
The restaurant is only open Thursday to Saturday and Roger spends considerable time and days to source local produce for his restaurant. He works closely with local fish and shellfish distributors, divers, and fishmongers to discover new and exciting ingredients he can serve to his customers at Sabi Omakase. Omakase means “I trust you” in Japanese and means that the restaurant has no fixed menu. Instead the Head Chef decides what to serve and puts all his experience and prestige into selecting and presenting the ingredients in a way that creates a unique experience for the guests.
One might expect Roger to be apprehensive and not wanting to share his knowledge and secrets with others. Nothing could be farther from reality.
“I want to create something for future generations of chefs in Norway,” he states. Sharing his unique competency is a purely positive thing for Roger, and he relishes the chance to teach and mentor other young chefs that aspire to achieve something of what he has achieved. Talented chef, Vladimir Pak worked for Roger for a few years, and when the time was ripe to open a Sabi Omakase restaurant in Oslo, Roger and Sabi team decided that Vladimir deserved his chance to develop his own style. “Although both restaurants use the same EdoMae style, I do not micromanage what is served in Oslo,” Roger says, underlining that the Head Chef must have the authority and autonomy to make his own selections and decisions. It has worked well. Sabi Omakase by Vladimir Pak opened at Vika Terrace in Oslo and achieved one Michelin star in 2019.
So, does he ever regret not choosing a career in criminology? “No, but I use many of the same skills when I investigate local produce and search for the highest quality ingredients, so in a way I am working as an investigator as well,” Roger says. “I believe in simplicity, pure ingredients and the quality of work,” he says, “and our guests should always have a truly exceptional dining experience.”